Sears Craftsman 41AC150-2 Receiver Logic Board

1. It Works.2. It solved my garage door problem.3. I did have to remove both the green logic board and the tan color power board that came with the new housing and install them in the housing that came with my original Sears garage door opener.4. The process is very simple.5. Search YouTube for "Sears Craftsman Garage Door Logic Board Replacement Instructions" for videos.

This part was used to repair a Sears 1/2 horse power garage door opener with a PURPLE Learn Button and two light bulbs - Sears Part number 41AC150-2. Also included in this review are some tips that may make the installation easier. The first problem I noticed was a year ago when the lights on the garage door opener would stay on for less than a minute, unlike the 4-5 minutes when the unit was new. Then a few weeks ago the door began stopping at random intervals in both the up and down cycle and the light would flash once. I narrowed down the problem by confirming that this problem occurred with multiple remotes and with the activator button. After failing to find an exact replacement for the entire unit, I decided to exchange the logic board with this product. As another reviewer noted, the replacement housing had a flat side whereas mine was rounded, so I knew I would need to move the logic board to my housing as noted in the poorly worded "disclaimer" that came with the new part. The logic board is held in place by 5 Phillip screws and the swap is easy. Here are some tips I learned while performing the swap. #1. Unplug the unit: there are things inside that are "hot" that you wouldn't expect. Once (years ago) I removed the cover of an opener "just to look" while standing barefoot on my table saw and got a good shock. There are parts inside that are "hot" that you would not expect. #2. You must detach the wires for the activator button and safety sensors. So before detaching any wires make sure you can put them back correctly after swapping the logic board. Take pictures, use tape, use markers, whatever, just be sure you can put them back in correctly. #3. The housing screws are different. There are 2 machine thread screws on the top of each housing that go to a metal bracket, and 2 wood-type screws on the bottom of each housing that hook to a plastic bracket. The screws look very similar but have different threads, so keep this in mind when reassembling. #4. After the housing screws are removed the housing will not "pop out". There are two plastic friction-fit projectiles holding the housing in place. A fair bit of force is needed to get the logic board housing to release from the main unit. #5. Once the side housing containing the logic board was removed I could see the white nylon gears and noticed that they looked dry of grease. Since I did not have any white lithium grease at hand I had to make a run to O'Reilly's for a $5 tube of grease. I would suggest purchasing the grease before beginning work, since for me this meant leaving the door UP while running to the store. In order to put grease on all the gears I had to remove the main cover of the unit. Not hard, but again pay attention to the thread of the screws. #6. As a side note: The adjustment screws for the UP and DOWN travel distance are located on the other side of the unit. These are physical electric stops and no adjustment should be needed with the new logic board. #7. Moment of Despair (Use the Force): Once the logic board was swapped and everything was put back together, the door closed just fine. But when attempting to open it stopped about 1/3 way up and stayed there, similar to the problem before the new logic board. This happened several times, and after a few choice words, I decided to check the OPEN FORCE and CLOSE FORCE adjustments that are part of the logic board (blue plastic in pictures). The logic board had arrived with both adjustments set to the lowest position (there is a note in the instructions regarding FORCE settings). I moved both to a middle position matching my old logic board and everything is working great 3 weeks into the new part. #8. One last tip: Since I am only going to throw away the housing that came with the logic board, I decided to "steal" the silver light reflector from the new part and double down on the reflectivity near the light and hopefully keep some heat off of the new logic board (see picture). I did punch out a hole that the reflector covered, even though I could not figure out why the hole existed. This review is prepared and presented without compensation of any sort. If this review was of benefit please flag using the "Helpful" button below the review.

The casing from the new circuit board didn’t fit my garage door opener. I removed the new circuit board and screwed it on my old garage door casing. Works great.

I swap the plastic case, the logic board and power supplier is the same. I marked all the wires and I make sure to fix the Open force and the closing force.. before installing the board. My problem ,remotes do not respond after the board copy the codes. 4 remotes do not respond outside the door after I use the learn button. I m still scratching my head....

Goes in exactly the same way the old one came out. About twenty minutes each way being careful with color coding and ensuring proper placement of all plug-ins. Recommended.

What can I say second order plugged in logic board fixed ! I recommend this product and the seller since their after sale ethics is as Great as the product they sell.

Thank goodness this came 3 days early. Our garage door opener started stopping while going up or down. Very inconvenient since its the best way to enter the house. The lights on the side would go out then mysteriously come back on. I tried the opener again and again and the door was well-balanced so it wasn't struggling trying to lift/lower the door, it would just stop electronically. The motor chain all that was tip top. You could hear the relay or solenoid or whatever click on and off. So I decided to give this logic board a try and it was easy to put in and it fixed my problem. I saved $275 by not having another opener put in. It took 15 minutes to change out and Sears Parts Direct has a video on how to do it. I could not be more pleased. I have to wonder why they haven't engineered a more reliable logic board, however. My opener is only 3 years old.

Works great!! I was quoted $220 from a garage door company in town and they ordered the part from lift master. 2 months later, the part had not yet arrived. So, I went to trusty ol Amazon and ordered this part and planned on fixing it myself. I had one snafu but that was because I didn't read the disclaimer that comes with it. I had to remove the logic board from the new housing unit (didnt fit perfectly) and put it in my old/current one. Once I did that I was smooth sailing. The wires and everything were very simple to put back in their place. My garage door finally opens after 2 months of MANUALLY lifting it up and shutting it. I do have to reprogram the remotes and the keypad but that is a simple task.